The Making of SETOUCHI CRAFT TEA Vol. 2: Fig Leaves × Setouchi Sencha
Here, we would like to share the story behind the creation of SETOUCHI CRAFT TEA.
Starting in August 2023, we have been working to create one blend tea each month, combining products from the Setouchi region with Setouchi tea. It may be a long journey before these blends become finished products, but we hope you will enjoy following the process along the way.
SETOUCHI CRAFT TEA is our way of expressing the discovery of new charms of the Setouchi region through tea. We hope you will enjoy ingredients from Setouchi that are not yet widely known and, through their fusion with Japanese tea, discover values within tea that may not have been noticed before.
September's SETOUCHI CRAFT TEA
A Blend of Fig Leaves and Setouchi Sencha
One of Hiroshima's lesser-known local specialties is the fig.
It is something so familiar to us that we rarely gave it much thought. However, I was surprised to learn that figs sold locally for around 300 yen per pack can cost nearly twice as much in Tokyo. Within Hiroshima Prefecture, Onomichi is one of the leading fig-producing areas.
Because figs are delicate and difficult to transport, it was challenging to ship them over long distances until relatively recently. As a result, they were often consumed locally. I have also heard that figs became the next major crop to be cultivated in the region after mandarin oranges.
The variety of fig grown in Onomichi is called Hōraishi. When the bottom of the fruit splits open, it signals that the fig is ready to be harvested.
However, I was told that harvesting must begin as early as 4 a.m. each day, as insects quickly find their way into the opened fruit. For this reason, some figs are harvested while still green and allowed to ripen further after shipment. In that sense, they are much like bananas.
Hōraishi figs have a rich sweetness and a dense, luscious texture that can make eating them a truly enjoyable experience.
As for fig leaves, my interest began two years ago when an acquaintance gave me some tea made from fig leaves. I was deeply impressed by it. The aroma was difficult to describe—a mixture of sweetness, the richness of burning incense, and a mysterious fragrance unlike anything I had experienced before.
Fig leaves are remarkably large, and when a leaf is picked, a white sap immediately begins to flow from the stem.
The fig orchard featured in this project is located on Mukaishima, an island in Onomichi City. The figs are grown by Mr. Murakami.
Before the COVID-19 pandemic, Mr. Murakami opened Onomichi Kannonyama Fruit Parlour on Mukaishima. He cultivates a variety of citrus fruits and figs without the use of pesticides and operates a sixth-sector business, creating fruit parfaits using the produce he grows himself.
On this occasion, he kindly guided me through the orchard from 8 a.m. and shared many stories about his work and the fruits he cultivates.
No herbicides are used in the orchard. Instead, the grass is intentionally maintained at a certain height to help retain moisture in the soil.
The fig trees growing in such an environment looked remarkably vibrant and healthy.
Fig trees, too, will quickly grow beyond a person's height and can reach three to four meters if they are not pruned. To make harvesting easier, the trees are pruned to maintain a manageable size.
In that respect, they are much like tea plants.
One thing I realized during this visit to the island was, once again, how well suited the Setouchi climate is for growing fruit. Even though I live in the Setouchi region myself, the experience gave me a fresh appreciation for this fact.
Mr. Murakami introduced me to several other growers, and I had the opportunity to see different varieties of figs. The color of the fruit, the shape of the leaves, and the flavor all varied from one variety to another.
Among them, however, I found Hōraishi to be especially enjoyable, with its rich sweetness and dense texture.
Many of the other varieties had purple fruit. ↓
The shape of the leaves was completely different. ↓
